Old Names, New Moves: Three Iconic Brands in Their Comeback Era
By: Frankie Smith
Do you ever feel like your childhood-favorite brand completely dropped off the face of the earth? Probably because it did.
Since the early 2000’s, the fashion industry has experienced dramatic ebb and flow of brand popularity, with many companies and small businesses rising and falling. While fluctuation in brand appeal is common, recent drastic changes among category leaders has captivated fashion business professionals. Over the past decade, brands like Abercrombie & Fitch, Levi’s and Ralph Lauren have orchestrated their comebacks after periods of brand dilution, misaligned target audiences and stagnant creativity. These revivals stem from a number of things: social media hype over viral products, such as Polo Ralph Lauren’s American flag sweater, or renewed vintage appeal of Levi’s 501s. A common thread links these comebacks: nostalgia.
Recently, Adidas has ignited a seismic shift within the fashion industry. After Gen-Z fashion icon Bella Hadid was spotted sporting black Sambas while walking in New York, the shoe took the internet by storm. Adidas’ curated lineup of archival styles–Sambas, Spezials, Gazelles–offers a nostalgic allure that has captured attention across demographics. While the foundation of these styles is uniform, various colorways, textures, and details make each pair feel unique. The blend of vintage appeal and individuality has propelled the Adidass comeback.
Meanwhile, many brands are still stuck in a cycle of setbacks. Nike, Victoria’s Secret, and Gap are currently in the process of engineering their comeback, combining nostalgia with innovation in their efforts to reclaim cultural relevance.
Nike
Once the undisputed leader in sportswear, Nike is now experiencing a significant downturn due to lack of innovation, challenges with differentiation, and ineffective marketing tactics. While specifics of Nike’s recent decline are difficult to pinpoint, many industry insiders attribute it to the leadership strategies of former CEO John Donahoe. Donahoe’s tenure began amid a wave of executive departures from beloved designers to marketing professionals. To compensate, he launched a $2 billion restructuring plan and stringent cost-cutting initiatives, which created a strained company culture. Known for his focus on statistical data and balance sheets rather than creativity and trends–a hallmark of Nike’s brand identity–Donahoe’s approach coincided with a 20% drop in shares over the past year, as buzzy brands like On and Hoka captured market attention.
Nike seems to be culturally adrift with designers, critics, and customers noting a slump in creative energy and product innovation. Iconic releases like Air Force 1s, Jordans and Dunks were legendary for both their design and powerful marketing campaigns, driven by partnerships with sports industry celebrities and enduring slogan: “Just Do It.” Today, On and Hoka are focused on developing performance-focused technology, causing Nike loyalists to make the switch. Adaptive brands like Adidas, Aloha and Steve Madden, are constantly responding to modern and trend-based needs, positioning themselves to outpace Nike.
Nike is quickly strategizing a turnaround: starting with new CEO Elliott Hill. After countless redesigns of archival basketball sneakers, customers are exhausted and craving something completely new. Beginning from square one, Hill aims to accelerate innovation and advanced performance technology to recapture athletes, partners, and loyalists. Hill’s vision includes fresh product designs to cater to bored customers. To support these changes, Nike’s marketing needs to regain public interest and get people talking again, potentially through showcasing iconic all-star athletes or cultural figures. Nike has the potential to reconnect with its roots and revitalize its presence in the sportswear landscape.
Victoria’s Secret
VIctoria’s Secret is generating major buzz right now, and for good reason. After a six-year hiatus, the brand returned to the runway, bringing back the industry’s top models and alluding to its iconic elements while attempting to emphasize diversity. After a major exposé on the brands history of sexual harassment, centered around former-CEO Les Warner’s tie to infamous sex offender Jeffery Epstein, the brand’s integrity was left tarnished and market share plummeted. Initiatives such as VS Collective aimed at promoting an inclusive environment, aimed to regain popularity yet fell short.
In October, Victoria’s Secret staged its runway revival with supermodels Adriana Lima, Gigi Hadid, Tyra Banks, and Candice Swanepoel, showcasing signature lingerie, angel wings and defining bombshell makeup. However, they have received staunch criticism for their sub-par efforts to incorporate diversity. While the brand included plus-sized models like Paloma Elsesser and Ashley Graham alongside their transgender models Valentina Sampaio and Alex Consani, an idealistic beauty standard still dominated the runway. Despite strides towards modern DEI standards, the runway show proved they have a long way to go, which could impact customer perception and sales, as inclusivity becomes increasingly valued in society.
Regardless, the long-awaited revival of Victoria’s Secret’s runway shows have proven beneficial to their public image, with market shares rising nearly 7% in the subsequent 24 hours and social media mentions skyrocketing by 5000%. New CEO Hillary Super, who started her position just over a month before the show, outlined plans to reverse VS’s decline by focusing on customer feedback, reinstating brand loyalty programs and expanding swim and activewear collections. People are talking about the brand again. Whether it be of praise or criticism–they’re still talking.
Gap
For years, Gap has been quiet. Once an embodiment of American-casual fashion, the brand seemed to fade into obscurity. From national closures of over half its storefronts to steep revenue declines, the brand seemed to have lost its footing. For an in-depth look at Gap’s downfall, check out our last article: Bridging the GAP between Luxury and Affordability. Now Gap is engineering their comeback, intending to become the retail giant they once were.
The brand’s revival began with hiring a new CEO of Gap Inc, Richard Dickson: distinguished veteran of Mattel known for the revived Barbie renaissance. With proven expertise in revitalizing brands from their lowest points, he plans to build up the corporation but lacks experience in the fashion business. Thus, he appointed a new creative director, Zac Posen. Together, they’ve crafted a new vision, steering Gap toward more elevated and exciting offerings.
The brand’s creative redirection is now seeing the light of day through collaborations with modern, artistic, and luxury brands such as Madhappy, Cult Gaia, and Doen, sparking a shift from ultra-basic to fashion-forward. Increased traction from influencer partnerships with Troy Sivan and Tyla has ultimately engaged a younger, broader audience. Additionally, the release of viral, sell-out pieces, including Anne Hathaway’s button-up shirt dress and Da’vine Joy Randolph’s denim Met Gala gown has boosted visibility. With Gap Inc. shares up over 100% within the last year, it is safe to say that the brand’s reboot is just beginning.
What these brands have in common
Balancing a brand’s original identity with changing consumer needs can be challenging, often sparking massive brand makeovers to regain competitiveness. Although Nike, Victoria’s Secret and Gap declined for a variety of reasons–ranging from inadequate diversity efforts to stagnant innovation–their efforts are parallel in synthesizing nostalgia with novelty.
Brand rejuvenation is best captured through a three pronged approach emphasizing leadership, innovation and generating positive buzz. Within the past few years, all three of these brands have experienced major shifts in leadership, appointing new CEOs and other executives who present plans of reinvention. A common goal in their plans is to ignite innovation and creativity across marketing, design and company culture. The final piece in ensuring success lies in sparking conversation surrounding the brand. Whether through runway comebacks, heightened DEI efforts to unlikely collaborations, the early stages of comeback rely on building engagement and amplifying brand awareness.
Industry professionals predict financial turnarounds, strategic partnerships, and fresh customer engagement for Nike, Victoria’s Secret, and Gap. While their redemption journeys are still unfolding, these brands are steadily reclaiming relevance and reshaping their influence on the fashion landscape.
