The Modern Ice Age: A Glimpse Into the Relationship Between Jewelry and Hip-hop

By Julia Gordon

When you think of hip-hop, what comes to mind? Your favorite rapper? A specific song? An album cover? Maybe you envision a bold red carpet look, expensive cars, the overwhelming feeling you experience when that one beat comes on at the club. Everyone has an intimate image of hip-hop because hip-hop is everything: it is music, culture, a lifestyle, and it evolves every day. The genre was founded on four fundamentals — DJing, MCing, break dancing, and visual art — that together, construct the stylish essence of the genre. I’d like to add to this list three more elements that have stood the test of time in defining hip-hop culture and identity: silver, gold, and carbon.

In the 1970s, hip-hop was born. While its origins are enigmatic, the first sightings of the genre’s development can be traced back to New York City. Graffiti art, break dancing, and rapping served as a collection of art forms that bound neglected and oppressed Black neighborhoods. In the late 70s, hip-hop’s presence expanded and pioneers like Sugarhill Gang and Kurtis Blow were recognized nationally. When artists started to make it big, jewelry became a profound emblem of exactly that: a release from struggle and a symbol of success. Jewelry was something tangible — a demonstration of status that, if not respected, was difficult to deny.

Hip-hop's formative years were gold-plated, characterized by thin gold chains. Though more subdued than what is typical of today, these early accessories sparked a movement that inspired a future generation of artists to go for the gold. 

Jewelry became increasingly significant in the 1980s. It was the era of Wall Street, a time consumed by one national goal: getting rich. In the hip-hop community, jewelry became a desired means of practicing conspicuous consumption, a brilliant redefinition of the American Dream. Without the fall-back on generational wealth that many White individuals possessed, Black artists looked to create their own presentation of success. Thin chains got thicker and naked gold emblems became diamond-studded. Renowned rapper and record producer Slick Rick, known as  “Rick the Ruler,” is among the most striking presences, known for his infamous iced-out eye patch along with his eye-catching collection of crowns and other regal accessories. “Once your eyes are exposed to a certain level of jewelry extremeness, you always wanna reach that level,” he shared in an interview with GQ Magazine. 

In contention with the progressive force of the hip-hop industry, however, was the backlash of hip-hop artists being called ostentatious, too flashy, excessive. “Slick Rick and Elizabeth Taylor are doing the same thing with just slightly different aesthetics to it,” Imani Perry, professor of African American Studies at Princeton University shared with producers of “Ice Cold.”  This form of stereotyping was no novelty, but unapologetically, the hip-hop industry only continued to gain popularity and legitimacy. 

Over the next two decades, the significance of hip-hop jewelry transcended rappers and music producers into an industry in and of itself. Alongside new chain styles, the market expanded to new territories, popularizing everything from watches, to rings, to grills. Diamonds took precedence over gold. Jewelry became an investment, and the space became competitive. Artists tried to one-up each other, every name aspiring for the greatest collection or most expensive piece. An increase in customizability strengthened the relationship between rappers and their jewelry, creating an association between the two entities. Perhaps one of the most iconic chain-rapper combos was the diamond-studded Jesus piece crafted by jeweler Tito Caicedo owned by Notorious B.I.G. Since its debut, the chain has been worn by Jay-Z and Kanye West, who was even inspired to commission his own Jesus chain by Jacob Arabo of Jacob & Company.

Today, there are countless rappers who maintain a dynamic relationship with their jewelry, and for some, this connection is semi-permanent. Lil Uzi Vert, for instance, will be forever recognized by the 24-million-dollar diamond implanted in the center of his forehead. For $150,000, Lil Wayne had permanent bejeweled teeth installed in his mouth. “It’s not a grill because grills come out, ima die with these,” he shared in an interview with Jimmy Kimmel. His teeth are surprisingly far from the most expensive set of grills, however, which are owned by pop-singer Katy Perry for one million dollars. 

For lovers of hip-hop’s glittering exterior, it is important to have an understanding of what lies beneath the surface. In July of 2021, hip-hop trio Migos released, “Ice Cold,” a YouTube documentary that explored the foundational role of jewelry in the evolution of hip-hop culture. The four part series breaks down the history and cultural significance of jewelry through the lens of influential rappers, producers, and jewelry designers, initiating a meaningful conversation that extends beyond what is flashed on album covers and red carpets.

“It’s just so important for culture right now. A lot of people spend a lot of money on it and we want to give knowledge on what you’re spending your money on,” Offset shared with Complex Magazine.

So what’s next? Culturally, we are moving towards a more accepting society, ideally a place where everyone’s successes are celebrated equally. As hip-hop jewelry is consistently taking new forms, it is impossible to predict exactly where jewelry trends will land in the future. Regardless of its physical presentation, however, the significance of jewelry is constant, and its cultural impact gets stronger every day.